Hands-on, grounded and quality-centric Chef Dharshan savours Nihonbashi at 30

Chef Dharshan Munidasa - Pic by Ruwan Walpola 

• Says it isn’t just a celebration of a restaurant and a name, but a celebration of what Sri Lanka has to offer and what Sri Lanka can do
• Principles of Japanese cuisine kept him grounded to nature and used every challenge as an opportunity

By Nisthar Cassim

“I am hands-on, I micro-manage,” admits celebrity Chef Dharshan Munidasa, whose obsession with quality is among the reasons for the success of serving authentic Japanese cuisine at “Nihonbashi,” which turned 30 recently.

He describes it as the “secret for longevity” and identifies his flagship restaurant “Nihonbashi” as a testament to what Sri Lanka can do when it comes to authentic Japanese food.

Started in 1995 with a vision to bridge Japan and Sri Lanka through food, “Nihonbashi” has since earned global recognition, including being the first Sri Lankan restaurant on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list, ranking consecutively from 2013-2018.

In his relentless pursuit of the promotion of Japanese cuisine and the principles of Washoku, Dharshan was conferred “The Order of the Rising Sun, Gold and Silver Rays,” one of the highest honours granted by the Japanese Government.

During a recent interaction with the media, Dharshan recapped the 30-year journey of “Nihonbashi,” which is the first choice for Japanese food for tourists and Sri Lankans. 

“Nihonbashi has continuously evolved,” he recalls, adding that he has never stopped to opt for continuous improvement in terms of quality and the offering of Washoku or traditional Japanese cuisine. Dharshan enjoys making “good food, to good people.” He treats cooking as a privilege, as good food builds respect.

His uncompromising commitment to authenticity, and a deep respect for ingredients to serve truly Japanese food, explains “Nihonbashi’s” popularity. When Dharshan started “Nihonbashi,” authentic Japanese cuisine was less known and wasn’t widely available. 

He admits in the early years of “Nihonbashi,” some diners felt the food was too authentic, whilst some Lankans were averse to what they perceived as “raw” offerings. He resisted trends, like, for example, choosing not to serve “California Rolls” or fusion adaptations. Instead, Nihonbashi became a pioneer, introducing Sri Lankan diners to the nuanced flavours, textures, and philosophies of pure and unadulterated Japanese cuisine, from procuring Tsukiji-bound tuna to championing the purity of seasonal ingredients.

The restaurant takes great pride in sourcing most of its ingredients locally, given the access to the best tuna locally, reserving imports for those exceptional ingredients not found in Sri Lanka. “Sri Lanka is unique and blessed. You don’t need to import everything when you have lakes, oceans, cinnamon, tea, and of course, Sri Lankan crab.”

He recalls that ‘maguro sashimi’ was unfamiliar to local diners and he found out that “Amu Kelawalla,” if properly handled, could develop the deep red colour and quality of imported tuna.

He insists if pursued professionally and painstakingly, Sri Lanka has all the key ingredients for Japanese food, including the best of tunas. Given his grounding, Dharshan still visits fish landing sites and personally picks the best tuna.

Pointing to “Nihonbashi’s” new location in the Colombo Port City area, Dharshan said the self-designed restaurant space was also a testament to what amazing construction material we have in Sri Lanka.

Self-made restaurateur

Dharshan is indeed a self-made restaurateur. Born in Tokyo to a Japanese mother, Nobuko Munidasa and Sri Lankan father Dr. Milton Munidasa, Dharshan originally during his childhood in Japan observed how his mother and aunts cooked in the kitchen. After completing his primary and secondary education at St. Joseph’s College, Colombo, and Wycherley International School, he graduated with a Double Degree in Computer Engineering and International Relations from the Johns Hopkins University, USA. It was stated that only as a university student did he unearth his passion for cooking – out of necessity – as he found the commercial cafeteria food uninspiring.

Though he was offered a job in the tech industry, the demise of his father made him return to Sri Lanka and do something of his own.

“I didn’t go to culinary school. I never studied under a chef,” recalls Dharshan. But his love for Japanese food made him learn by eating and experimenting. This, he says, perhaps made him think outside the box, and differently.

The three decades of “Nihonbashi” wasn’t a cake walk, recalls Dharshan. Every challenge that came up, he used it as an opportunity. Financially, it was rocky too, but he weathered the tough times with perseverance.

Dharshan said the principles of Japanese cuisine kept him grounded to nature, never relying on short routes or the easy way out. “Every negative factor that I encountered, we overcame and made it a positive one.”

“Nihonbashi’s” new home at Port City features eight private dining rooms with a mix of Japanese tatami style seating and western style seating: Chikurin (Bamboo Forest), Akamatsu (Red Pine), Bonsai, Ikebana, Samurai, Whiskey, Wine, and Sake room, drawing inspiration from Dharshan’s Japanese heritage. The location exhibits an outdoor bar ‘Lost in Translation,’ along with what is possibly the largest Yakitori Grill in the world.

The menu features a combination of traditional Japanese cuisine and modern Japanese cuisine, ranging from A5 Japanese Wagyu, Sushi, Sashimi, Tempura, Teriyaki, and Nabe to a wide selection of yakitori, as well as Dharshan’s original dishes, such as Olive Oil Kake Tai Cha, Shirunashi Ramen, Karapincha Tempura, and Ten Sabi Temaki.

To mark this special occasion, “Nihonbashi” introduces Sushi Sen, an exciting new menu concept that reimagines the traditional hand roll experience. Guests become the architects of their own sushi roll, choosing from a selection of 10 mains, 10 vegetables, and 10 amazing sauces, creating a possible combination of 1,000 hand rolls. Sushi Sen offers a fun, interactive, and flavour-packed experience that brings something truly original to Colombo’s dining scene.

In reaching 30 years, Dharshan stresses that it isn’t just a celebration of a restaurant and a name. It is a celebration of what Sri Lanka has to offer. ”I am proud to say that we played some role in making Japanese cuisine popular in Sri Lanka and for Sri Lankans to savour ‘Nihonbashi’ apart from foreigners,” Dharshan said humbly.

“Nihonbashi’s” journey included a 12-seater sushi restaurant at Odel, followed by a 30-seater outlet at Hilton Residencies, each focused on a distinct area of Japanese cuisine. Over the years, “Nihonbashi” has evolved into a culinary incubator, giving rise to renowned restaurants like Ministry of Crab, The Tuna & The Crab, Kaema Sutra, and Carne Diem Grill, which all have strong influences of Japanese culinary philosophies. 

“Nihonbashi” also has branches in Kandy and the Maldives, extending its philosophy and experience beyond Colombo.