Sunday Dec 15, 2024
Sunday Dec 15, 2024
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By Charumini de Silva
Yogyakarta is the second most visited city in Indonesia in Central Java that boasts of a rich history and culture. Often called ‘Jogja’, this small city is the heartland of traditional Javanese culture, protected during colonisation, wartime, occupation, revolution and years of authoritarian rule. Yogyakarta, Indonesia’s cultural soul is the birthplace of batik and shadow puppetry and home to UNESCO-protected temples. Now, its thriving arts scene is putting this ancient city back on the international map. This fascinating combination, along with natural attractions boasting many places of interest is well worth exploring and is now drawing incentive groups, boosted by direct flights from Singapore.
The Daily FT participated in a familiarisation trip for media last month organised by the Indonesian Embassy in Sri Lanka and Singapore Airlines, which comprised visits to Yogyakarta key tourist attraction destinations. The Sri Lankan media contingent was accompanied by Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia in Sri Lanka Counsellor Hanomanresi Dwatmaji and Singapore Airlines Ltd. PR and Premium Services Manager Shihana Cader. This article explores places of interest in Yogyakarka and takes a look at its tourism plans, visits to Borobudur, Keraton Yogyakarta, Prambanan and Mount Merapi.
We departed from Bandaranaike International Airport on Singapore Airlines (SQ 469) and flew via Singapore to Yogyakarta on SilkAir (MI 154) as there are no direct flights to Indonesia from Colombo. We were in transit for five hours and everyone made the best of it by shopping in Singapore. We were welcomed at the Adisutjipto International Airport in Yogyakarta with a small drizzle of rain and looking around, it immediately felt like we were on familiar ground. Our guide Ari Isna, who works for the Indonesian Tourism Board in Yogyakarta warmly welcomed us at the airport and escorted us to the hotel.
After we checked into our hotel Innside by Melia, we had an hour to freshen up and prepare for an informal briefing on Yogyakarta and its tourism plans followed by our first Indonesian feast.
At the press conference the officials outlined their plans to boost tourism in Yogyakarta, with Singapore Airlines to endorse the destination by increasing flights and promoting the beautiful city among Sri Lankan tourists.
“The decision to offer free-visa in mid last year resulted positively for our arrival numbers from Sri Lanka to Indonesia. The average number of 11,000 visitors doubled to 26,000 tourists from Sri Lanka last year and we hope that the numbers will continue to grow in future,” Indonesian Embassy Counsellor Pinardi Priambododi said.
Singapore Airlines General Manager Hongyao Hu said Indonesia is one of the biggest markets of the airline where it operates over 100 flights a week.
According to him the airline operates to 13 various designations in Indonesia together with SilkAir a wholly owned subsidiary of Singapore Airlines. Singapore Airlines flies to three cities in Indonesia including Jakarta, Bali and Surabaya, while SilkAir flies to Balikapan, Bandung, Denpasar, Lombok, Makassar, Manado, Medan, Palembang, Pekanbaru, Semarang, Surabaya and Yogyakarta.
Indonesian Embassy Counsellor Hanomanresi Dwatmaji pointed out that the interest from the Indonesians is also building up in visiting Sri Lanka especially for historic site seeing in Kandy, Sigiriya and Anuradhapura.
We had dinner at the famous Sasanti Restaurant, where former President of US Barack Obama too had a memorable Indonesian meal.
The dishes I recognise and remember from that meal, which also featured at meals to follow, included chicken satay and beef satay; beef soup, fried fish, fried chicken with an Indonesian twist; various kinds of vegetables with garlic; tofu and egg deep fried, battered prawns with an Indonesian twist, sambol and of course red and white rice.
Rice was a feature at every meal – ideal for the Sri Lankan palate! The waiters serve up all the other dishes first and the rice last and that’s when you know it’s time to dig in – although diners nibble on the other dishes until the rice makes an appearance. Everyone enjoyed their first scrumptious Indonesian feast and was so full.
First up on the sightseeing tour was UNESCO World Heritage site, the Borobudur Temple Compounds. After a lovely breakfast from the hotel, where the Head Chef specially made a spicy chicken curry to suit our palates, we reached the destination within two hours.
Borobudur is one of the greatest Buddhist monuments in the world, and was built in the 8th and 9th centuries AD during the reign of the Syailendra Dynasty. The monument is located in the Kedu Valley, in the southern part of Central Java, at the centre of the island of Java, Indonesia. The main temple is a ‘Stupa’ built in three tiers around a hill which was a natural centre: a pyramidal base with five concentric square terraces, the trunk of a cone with three circular platforms and, at the top, a monumental stupa. The walls and balustrades are decorated with fine low reliefs, covering a total surface area of 2,520 m2. Around the circular platforms are 72 openwork stupas, each containing a statue of the Buddha.
The vertical division of Borobudur Temple into base, body, and superstructure perfectly accords with the conception of the universe in Buddhist cosmology. It is believed that the universe is divided into three superimposing spheres, kamadhatu, rupadhatu, and arupadhatu, representing respectively the sphere of desires where we are bound to our desires, the sphere of forms where we abandon our desires but are still bound to name and form, and the sphere of formlessness where there is no longer either name or form. It is the largest restoration project undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian Government and UNESCO, following which the monument was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Temple should also be seen as an outstanding dynastic monument of the Syailendra Dynasty that ruled Java for around five centuries until the 10th century. The Borobudur Temple Compounds consists of three monuments, namely the Borobudur Temple and two smaller temples situated to the east on a straight axis to Borobudur.
The two temples are Mendut Temple, whose depiction of Buddha is represented by a formidable monolith accompanied by two Bodhisattvas, and Pawon Temple, a smaller temple whose inner space does not reveal which deity might have been the object of worship. Those three monuments represent phases in the attainment of Nirvana.
We started to climb Borobudur’s tiered stone splendour almost past nine in the morning and the temperature was a little too harsh on us – so best is to carry your own cap or an umbrella, which can also be purchased at the car park as you reach the destination. Exploring this great monument was a great experience and visitors can take their time slowly climbing through the 150 steps, taking pictures all the way up.
The place was not overly crowded when we visited, although there were many school children, tourists and local people in the vicinity. Our tour guide at Borobudur said Borobudur was heavily affected by the eruption of Mount Merapi in October and November 2010. Volcanic ash from Merapi fell on the temple complex, which is approximately 28 km (17.5 mi) west-southwest of the crater.
It was a breathtaking view from the top tier of Borobudur and the heat wave was worth it. The tour guide also said that there are sunrise tours that can be arranged for travellers. I think that would be a once in a lifetime experience. It was amazing feeling in another corner of the temple, where there were no tourists, and enjoyed the serenity, the sounds of the call to prayer in silence. It was an unforgettable experience.
We come down from a different side of the monument and vendors invaded us with souvenirs, fruits, books, sweetmeats and t-shirts and Indonesian snacks where many of the team mates were able to purchase little souvenirs at a bargained price.
The visit was followed by lunch at Plataran Borobudur Resort enveloped in lush forests and mountains just five minutes from Borobudur Temple Compound, boasting spectacular views. This tranquil escape is designed with Indonesian style with dark, polished wood and traditional pieces of art grace. The dining was at the ‘Patio Lounge and Restaurant’ where the staff was extremely hospitable. They served a range of Indonesian and international cuisine which were very generous in portions and full of flavour.
After a pleasant lunch, we headed to our first Indonesian shopping spree in close proximity to the hotel. Everyone felt quite satisfied after changing their US Dollars in to Indonesian Rupees as we all became millionaires in no time! Although we were told it was not a major shopping mall in Yogyakarata, it had several leading brands at affordable prices.
We ended our second day in Yogyakarta with a familiar spread for dinner at Taj Restaurant and this time around it was to an authentic Indian meal. We also met with Singapore Airlines General Manager Sri Lanka Hongyao Hu and the Sri Lankan tour operators. The first day was a memorable experience.
Day three in Yogyakarta kicked off with a visit to Keraton Yogyakarta meaning ‘Yogyakarta Palace’. From Aceh in the West to Ambon in the East, many kingdoms have reigned in Indonesia since ancient times. However, among many of the palaces, Keraton Yogyakarta is the only ancient Indonesian palace that still maintains its activities, just like what the royal family did in the past.
Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwana X and his family live in the Keraton Yogyakarta. However, more than just a home to the royal family, Yogyakarta Palace is now open to public and has become a living museum of well-preserved Javanese culture within the beautiful and unique architecture. This magnificent palace boasts the rich Javanese culture and stands as a symbol of peace and harmony for the country’s citizens.
As explained by our lady guide at the palace, this masterpiece complex is built with limited walls allowing free space, facing Mount Merapi to the north, the Indian Ocean from the south, which describes essentials on earth air, fire and water. Entering the palace you notice that all the details that are built within the palace are according to ancient Javanese beliefs.
When you walk through the main wooden door you’ll find Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwana X palace. By the time we reached, he was not in his palace as he had already left to office. Sri Sultan is also the Governor of Yogyakarta. We were told that on his return after work around 2 p.m., he put on a green light which signals his presence at the palace. Walking through you also find a museum containing the collection of royal traditional carriages that were used in the past to transport the royal families in formal occasions such as weddings.
However, the most eye catching piece of equipment was the giant rolling pin. As the destination is prone to many natural disasters, the tour guide said from the palace to every house has a rolling pin hung in front to loudly bang and to alert fellow countrymen of danger. The palace also has performances held for tourism purposes. There is a section called ‘Sri Manganti’. It is the place where musical and dancing performances are often held and you will see traditional Javanese orchestral instruments of gamelan for free.
Aside from the collection of Javanese properties like ceramics, glassware, weapons, photographs, paintings, miniatures, and replicas, visitors can observe royal servants wearing traditional Javanese clothes move around the palace performing their duties. They all voluntarily serve the king merely for their reverence to their respectable king. Their service to the king comes in various ways such as guarding the palace, keeping an eye on royal properties, preparing offerings for certain rituals and so forth. It is the place where Javanese culture lives on.
After a very informative tour at the Keraton Yogyakarta, en route to our lunch we visited Batik Rara Djonggrang, a batik workshop that brilliantly demonstrates how they create details with copper blocks of intricate designs. They give tours of the batik workshop located at the back of the store, with great explanations. The owners invited us to have a firsthand experience of batik printing. You’re showed how it is made piece by piece, the dyeing fabrics, wax on and wax off to the finish product. So you get a very good idea of the amount of work that goes into handmade batik. The store has a wide selection of batik sheets and clothing in many designs, traditional and more modern. Thereafter we reached at Abhayagiri Restaurant which has a very nice landscape, view and architecture. It serves a variety of Indonesian, Chinese and Western cuisine. The food was very tasty, and the service was pretty efficient and warm.
Prambanan: Astonishingly beautiful with great historical significance
In the evening we visited Prambanan temple, one of the world’s most historic and sacred Hindu sites. Religious sites may not always be the main reason for one to visit a particular destination (unless you are going on a pilgrimage), but this one makes a big exception. You will definitely want to set your foot in the Prambanan temple, one of the largest Hindu temples in the world. Interestingly, it is also one of the most exotic tourist destinations in the world.
Rambanan Temple Compounds comprises of two groups of buildings which includes Loro Jonggrang, Sewu complexes, Lumbung, Bubrah and Asu (Gana). Prambanan Temple Compounds contains the original structures that were built in the 9th century AD. It’s actually a complex consisting of hundreds of temples, but most of them have collapsed over time. Only the major ones, six of them, are rebuilt.
These astonishingly beautiful temples were built in the ninth century when Java flourished under the rule of Mataram Kingdom, a powerful Hindu kingdom. Although much of the original structures have been reduced to rubbles, the main temples are still standing gracefully, as a valuable heritance proving that a great kingdom once ruled this land.
According to UNESCO, the 508 stone temples of various shapes and sizes are either in a complete and preserved condition or have been retained as ruins. This site includes all elements necessary to express its exceptional significance and is well maintained. There are no threats of development or neglect; however the area is prone to natural threats such as earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.
In addition to its epic history, the architecture itself is admirable. The astounding building of Prambanan reveals the sophistication of the architecture that was built centuries ago. The structural design consists of huge stones skilfully and brilliantly carved and put together in artistic construction. Although the technology to build the temple is still a mystery, the carvings on the temple itself tell stories. In fact, they are not just artistic carvings on stones, but more than that, they are reliefs revealing the tale of Ramayana, the well-known love story of Rama and Sita. To ‘read’ the complete story of Ramayana, you have to walk around the temple clockwise since the tale of how Rama heroically rescued Shinta was carved on the outer walls of the temple.
Typical of a tropical country, the weather in Prambanan is always sunny. The good news is you can get awesome pictures. If you are feeling hot, the complex is surrounded by a large park with numerous shady trees. Benches are provided here and there are shady spots in which you can get away from the heat, relax and enjoy the beauty of the temples from a distance.
On our way back to the hotel after a long day, we stopped at Hartono Mall for shopping and dinner. This by far is the biggest mall in Yogyakarta, which houses world’s leading brands under one roof. The prices were quite reasonable compared to most of the other shopping destinations like Thailand and Singapore. This time around we had a Chinese feast for dinner, which everyone thoroughly enjoyed.
Day four is one of the interesting tourist activities if you are planning a trip here – an adventure on the foothill of Merapi by off-road Jeep. This activity allows people to see the aftermath of the eruption, as well as view the top of Mount Merapi.
Mount Merapi’s located approximately 28 kilometres north to the large Yogyakarta city with thousands of people living on the flanks of the volcano. Prior to our tour, we would arrive at Kaliadem, the village located at the base of Mount Merapi.
You will find a lot of jeep communities on Kaliadem that offer the off-road adventure to see the after-effects of Merapi eruption. The tour will be led by a professional driver who doubles as a guide. Each jeep would be comfortable enough for three passengers but they say it even can fit around four to five passengers.
The Merapi Mountain is an active strato volcano located on the border between Central Java and Yogyakarta, Indonesia. It is the most active volcano in Indonesia and has erupted regularly since 1548. Nevertheless, it is still quite safe to visit. With its height of 2,965 metres, or 247 feet above sea level, Merapi has become a popular destination for tourists. In case you are worried, this is not a dangerous activity. The forbidden location, which is considerably dangerous, is at the top crater of the mountain, which is out of bounds to public.
The journey begins at a dusty road, which is full of rocks alongside ravines. You will feel a rush of adrenaline when the driver drives the Jeep through various slopes on the road. The professional driver will take you through the safest route depending on the profile of his passengers. If the passenger is a 60 years old man/woman or a young kid, the driver would drive slowly along flatter terrain.
The first destination on the itinerary is the mini museum ‘Sisa Hartaku’ translated as ‘My Remaining Treasure Museum’. This museum serves to inform visitors about the impacts of the last Merapi eruption. It is where you can see the extent of the destruction when the hot cloud hits the village. After a good 20 minutes at the museum, it started raining which delayed our trip for another few minutes.
The second destination shall bring you to a bunker where two volunteers were trapped and died. It is actually located three metres underground, layered with 25 cm thick iron. However, the 1000 degrees Celsius hot volcanic materials, such as dry lava, buried the bunker during the last eruption in 2010. As the weather Gods were not in our favour today, we decided to conclude our journey. However, on the way back to base camp, the driver will took us off-road through rocky paths and a small river, which is unforgettable.
There is no time limit to visit this destination, but if you wish to feel the cold fresh air, you can either choose morning or late afternoon. A tour at dawn will allow you to catch a beautiful sunrise if you are lucky. The things that you need to prepare for this adventure is a jacket for the cold mountain weather and a face mask to avoid the dust, which will be provided by the driver.
Upon visiting Mt. Merapi, the magnificent landscape and seeing the after effects of nature, you would realise that there is a greater power than those of humans. This adventure and educational tour will teach you to be more appreciative of life as well as to be more cautious in everything that we do. After a memorable journey we headed for an authentic Indonesian feast at a nearby restaurant. Thereafter the team continued its shopping spree once again till it was dinner time. As tonight is our last day in Yogyakarta, we handed over a small token of appreciation to Ari for being such a noble human being throughout our journey.
It was time to head back home after an unforgettable stay in Yogyakarta. After bidding adieus to the hotel staff at Innside by Melia, we left to the airport to board the SilkAir flight carrying us to Singapore. With a few hours in transit for our Singapore Airlines flight back home, we decided to enjoy the free city tour given to travellers by the Singaporean Tourism Authority.
For those who are planning their holidays this season, I would highly recommend them to explore the beautiful Yogyakarta. There are daily flights from Colombo to Singapore and Silk Air operates daily flights from Singapore to Yogyakarta. The Singapore Airlines Colombo office is extremely supportive to offer their services to all the travellers.
