Panduwasnuwara The fortress city where Unmada Chitra met Deega Gamini

By Aysha Maryam Cassim

There is a saying that the strongest tales are those from our past. Myths, legends and archaeology tell us interesting stories about the legend of Panduwasnuwara. Although we cannot guarantee the accuracy of these folk stories, we tend to cling on to its fictitious nature, steeped in colourful, romantic and dramatic anecdotes, which gives us important insights that embody our history.

Paramramapuraya of Dakkina Deshaya

According to Mahavansa Prince Pandukhabaya was educated under Master Pandula who used to live in “Dakkina Deshaya” (South Country). The 12th century finds in Panduwasnuwara reveals that ‘Parakramapura’ aka Panduwasnuwara in Dakkina Deshaya was the controlling centre where King Parakramabahu planned his military campaigns for his battles. 

Parakramabahu the Great, the king of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa, was one of the last monarchs in Sri Lankan history to unite the three kingdoms of the island under one flag. Dakkina Deshaya gave him the economical and political background to wield his power that contributed to his overall prosperity associated with his reign. 

How to get there

Panduwasnuwara is around 40 km (45-minute drive) from Kurunegala. When you are heading towards Wariyapola from Kurunegala, drive another 20km to reach Hettipola to find the fortress of Prakamapuraya – a lost city that was discovered in a thick forest. 

Unmada Chitra and Deega Gamini

King Panduvasdev’s Queen Bhaddakachchana gave birth to a girl after 10 sons. She grew up to be an unparalleled beauty that would drive one with maddening desire with the mere sight of her. Hence she was called Unmada (maddening desire in Sinhala) Chithra (picture). 

Upon her birth, royal astrologers prophesied that Chitra’s future son would kill all his uncles for the sake of sovereignty. After Prince Abhaya was consecrated as the King, he imprisoned his youngest sister in a chamber house known as Ektam Ge so that no man could approach or let alone lay their eyes on the captive princess. This tower was guarded by hundreds of soldiers day and night. But this couldn’t stop the love that was blossoming between Deena Gamini and Chitra. 

This story will remind you of Rapunzel, the girl who was blessed with long golden tresses that glowed under the sun. When she was 12 years old the sorceress locked her in a tower in a faraway forest that had only one little window right at the top. 

The colossal circular area (chakkrawalaya) that you find behind the Panduwasnuwara Viharaya is believed to be remnants of the high tower where Unmada Chitra was put into solitary confinement. Some people refer to this area surrounded by Nuga and Naa trees as Biso Kotuwa.

The birth of a great king

When Deega Gamini and Unmada Chitra’s child Pandukabhaya was born, she sent him off to a nearby village in Ruhuna and placed on her bed a baby girl instead. At the age of 16, young Pandukhabaya ascended the throne after killing eight of his maternal uncles. 

His service to the country was exemplary. Pandukhabaya respected religious and educational reforms and honoured scholars. During his reign over 70 years, he laid the foundation for the construction of cities that he administrated. 

History of Panduwasnuwara

The city we know as Panduwasnuwara today was one of the Arya settlements in ancient Sri Lanka. Most of these villages were established on fertile lands that were located near rivers and reservoirs. Panduwasnuwara rose to prosperity around its waterfront Panda Wawa. 

Pandawawa in Panduwasnuwara is considered as the first ever irrigation reservoir in history, built by King Panduwas Dev – the successor to King Vijaya, the founder of the nation in the fifth century BC. 

Panda Wewa may be the first great reservoir ever constructed if we omit from consideration the great lakes of Egypt since they were merely immense natural hollows into which water was turned. (Ref: H. Parker, Ancient Ceylon).

The ruins

The city of Panduwasnuwara in Sri Lanka was well fortified by a 40-foot thick wall and a moat. But the magnificence of this city is yet to be unveiled from the ruins of the past. 

The archaeological exploration in Panduwasnuwara started under the supervision of Dr. Senarath Paranavitana – former Archaeological Commissioner of Ceylon in 1934. The excavation and cleaning haven’t been completed to date. Today, at the Panduwasnuwara Archaeological Museum, you could visit some of the artefacts and jewels that were unearthed from the historical sites. 

In the vicinity of Panduwasnuwara Raja Maha Viharaya, Pandu/Madya Maha Vidyalaya (National School) and Kanishta Vidyalaya, there is a compound which expands over an area of 20 hectares. On the site, you will find a cluster of ruins such as the Royal Palace with carved pillars, guard stones, stone inscriptions (sellipi) and water ponds. 

At the North Western end of the Palace, there are remains which show the importance given to sanitation technology in the ancient times. There is a toilet basin made of cement which resembles the colour of a modern cement flooring. There is a gutter that allows the unclean water to flow from the basin into a pit. The pit is made of brick and clay. Treasure hunts and pillage have done much damage to this structure, destroying its archaeological value which has been preserved for centuries.

The edifices of significance are called “panchayathana”, that feature several stupas with complexes, “bodhigaras” (the short protective wall surrounding the Bo tree), monasteries, “pilimagey” (image house), a “piriven shaalawa” and “awasa geya” that provided accommodation quarters for Buddhist monks.