Cordoba, Court of the Caliphs

By Aysha Maryam Cassim

The Romans found Cordoba one of the greatest cities of the medieval world. Cordoba witnessed the greatest glory during Islam’s Golden Age when it became the capital of the Moorish kingdom of El-Andalus (Islamic Spain). 

In the 10th century, Cordoba prospered through the coexistence of cultures between Muslims, Christians and Jews where literature, poetry and architecture flourished. Next to Puerta de Almodovar, stands a statue of the Cordobán philosopher-playwright Seneca, reminding us of the intellectualism of this great city of knowledge.

The Courtyards of Cordoba 

During my stay in Andalusia, I did not miss this Andalusian gem, which was only a two-hour Alsa bus ride from neighbouring Granada. Cordoba is a classic little Spanish town that can be explored on foot, bicycle or even an opulent horse carriage. The riverfront streets and narrow alleyways are delightfully peaceful and clean. The city bursts with life during the spring and summer seasons.

My Spanish friend Carmen always tempted to me into visiting Spain by sharing pictures of the beautiful patios in her hometown, Cordoba. And it worked like a charm. 

Andalusian life centres round its verdant patio. Sometimes, a fountain graces the courtyard surrounded by citrus trees, scenting the air as a delightful welcome for the visitors. The wrought iron window grills are adorned with vibrant flowers making it a picture perfect postcard that depicts the romance of Andalusia. 

Calleja De Las Flores – one of the many beautiful alleys of Cordoba Spain is perfect for an evening promenade. It’s the best way to escape the fierce summer sun. 

I was told to visit Spain in May as I wouldn’t miss the famous La Fiesta de Los Patios – The Courtyards Festival of Cordoba organised by the Town Hall. The festival which has been in the scene, since 1921, is followed by tapas, dances and colourful performances by the best local artists. If you are visiting Cordoba during Autumn or Winter, don’t be disappointed. There are plenty of medieval treasures to be found in this city. 

The Roman Bridge

Lonely Planet introduces Cordoba to us as a ‘natural film set’ and I couldn’t agree more. El Puente Romano – Roman Bridge of Córdoba, was depicted as the long bridge of Volantis in the 6th season of HBO’s medieval fantasy drama series, Game of Thrones (Season 6, Episode 7 – The Broken Man).

The mighty bridge on Guadalquivir River established Cordoba’s strategic importance as a port city in Andalusia. River Guadalquivir was once used for shipping Spanish olive oil, wine and wheat back to Ancient Rome. 

La Mezquita – The Great Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba

Built between the 8th and 10th centuries, this structure underwent a complete transformation over the years and survived to become the symbol of the city. As you make your way over to the Patio de Los Naranjos (a classic Islamic ablutions courtyard) situated in the heart of Cordoba, you would find city’s greatest jewel. 

The multi-arched Mezquita of Cordoba reflects the sophisticated splendour of Spanish Islamic architecture. Today the Mezquita de Cordoba can be visited for an entrance fee. But the cathedral opens up free to the public (8:30 a.m.-9 a.m.) before mass, where you can immerse yourself in the grandeur of the court of the caliphs. 

Mihrab is a semi-circular niche in the wall that indicates the direction that Muslims should face when praying). The mihrab is considered as the finest feature of The Great Mosque of Córdoba. The interior is sumptuously ornamented with Arabic calligraphy, mosaics and geometrical carvings. 

Juderia 

Juderia is a wonderful setting for the observant tourist who enjoys people watching and life’s many other simple pleasures. The Jewish quarter of Cordoba is a lively plaza which abounds with whitewashed walls, artisan blue doors, Cordobán eateries and Arabic tea houses like Salon de Té, where they serve exotic concoctions with sweets. 

Take a respite from sight-seeing and walk along the maze of narrow streets. You might stumble upon beautiful private patios with colourful flower pots and intricately crafted mosaics. 

Calle Cairuán

Calle Cairuán is a street that leads us to the Almodóvar Gate and the channels. The water cascading down from the pools tranquillises your mind. This is where you could find medieval fortifications and statues of some of Cordoba’s notable intellectuals like Seneca and Averroes, a famous doctor and a major figure in the history of Arab-Islamic philosophy. 

Alcazar De Los Reyes Cristianos 

Built by Alfonso XI in 1328, Alcazar of Cordoba served as the Islamic Caliph’s personal residence. Alcazar De Los Reyes Cristianos is a Mudejar style fortress that can be found within a short walking distance from Mezquita. It is said that in the 15th century, the Catholic Monarchs held court and launched their conquest of Granada from here. 

The Alcazar palace is a marvel not to be missed. The gardens blossom during Spring and the flowing fountains lined with orange trees offer some of the best views of the city not to be found anywhere.