Colombo to Constantinople Journeying around Turkey

Sultan Ahamet

Ortaköy Mosque ​

Bosphorous cruise

 Text and pix by Aysha Maryam Cassim 

The opening scene of Sky Fall shows James Bond in a motorbike pursuit, chasing a black Audi along the labyrinth of corridors in the Grand Bazaar of old town, Istanbul. This was one of my favourite 007 moments. Istanbul lies on the edge of Europe where East meets West. “I have to visit this place,” I thought to myself. 

Istanbul is a city synonymous with “Keyif”, Turkish for “Pleasure”. You may find everything here enticing and enchanting. From the generous souls who treat you with great hospitality and its architectural serendipity, this place was like a benediction. 

The journey to Istanbul began in February. The weather was murky. The sky was painted in monotonous hues of greys. It was winter in Turkey. As we landed in Ataturk International Airport, The city gave me a warm welcome with cold-driven snow. That was the first time I kissed and felt the frost of earth in 24 years.

Journey highlights

Exploring the Golden Horn of Constantinople: We started off with a feast of Mediterranean breakfast and set out to explore the Golden Horn in Sultan Ahmet, the place where the cultural treasure troves are hidden. 

Istanbul remains resplendent, just as I had seen on the web. Graceful minarets rose above the Old City as I made my way through the old quarter. Everywhere there was a reflection of peace and perfection suffused with intricate details of calligraphy. The splendour of the Ottoman past still abides in the historical remnants like the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia evoking the glories of Byzantine ingenuity

The Cosmopolitan Quarter: We crossed the Galata Bridge to experience the urbanism of Metropolis Istanbul. Taksim Square is the heart of Beyoğlu and this is an access point to your travel itinerary in the city. This is known to be an epicentre for riots and rallies carried out by young revolutionists. The Turkish youth represents the bastion of Turkish identity and secular values.

Galata Quarter: I would like to call this the Monmatre of Istanbul. Undoubtedly, this is my favourite street after Istiklal Cadessi. Contemporary Cafés, concrete walls canvassed with Graffiti and artisan boutiques add a continental élan to the cobble stoned streets of Galatta. The summit of Galatta Kulesi gives a 360° view of the splendiferous cityscape! 

Istiklal Avenue: The most travelled street of my voyage. I marvelled at my ability to have long satisfying walks along this famous shopping boulevard of Beyoglu. If you have an “Istanbul Kart” with you, hop on to a classic red old tram to experience a ride to remember. Take a respite from your worn-out feet to listen to indie bands and violinists. This place flourishes with culture and creative energy. The best way to witness the nightlife in Istanbul and merry-make with the folks besotted by coffee and Rakí is to head towards the Independence Avenue.

Ortaköy: “The Village in the middle” – A haven for the epicurean travellers of Istanbul. Ortaköy caught my fancy like love at first sight. The iconic image on the web which represents Istanbul is often the Ortaköy Mosque under the Bosphorus Bridge. This neighbourhood exudes so much history and character. You can enjoy their signature savoury Kumpir or sweet waffle by the waterfront while the sun sinks into the Bosphorus.

Bebek: A fisherman’s neighbourhood where you find the sedentary life of Istanbul. Bebek means baby. It’s a district known for its purity and sober beauty. Life is extravagant here. You may spot Istanbulites in their glossy Porsches and Masteratis gliding past the impeccably maintained streets. The stunning coastline attracts the joggers, old men and little gleeful children. If you are a wayfarer like me, take a long walk from Arnavutköy to Bebek Park. The promenade by the Bosphorus Strait will not make your feet fatigued, because you will always find something fascinating at every kink in the road.

Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar: Grand Bazaar is a market for those who are good at haggling. For the rest though, it’s a place where you will get ripped off majestically. The historical ambiance of the old bazaar will leave you spellbound with its large maze of boutiques. From insanely expensive tapestries to stunning jewellery and pottery, this place is definitely a shopaholic’s stop. Doing some window-shopping beforehand will make your retail therapy worth the money.

The well-known Egyptian Spice Market is the place to be if you are longing to do some last minute purchasing. Pure Iranian saffron, cheese from Trabzone, succulent olives, Ceylon tea and all sorts of Turkish delights that you need can be bought here; not to mention that this is one of the few places in Istanbul where your wallet doesn’t cry. I saw locals queuing up to get their freshly ground “Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi” coffee. The place smelled heavenly and spicy. This reminded me of a meticulously kept, well-organised version of Pettah market in Sri Lanka. Don’t hesitate to have small banter over a cup of çai with the friendly vendors. You get what you give. If they find you appealing, you could walk away with free samples and souvenirs!

The gastronomical journey: Istanbul is where you find the finest food from earth and sea. It caters to all kinds of gourmands. Shish, Döner, Köfte Kebaps and an array of vibrant vegan dishes will keep your system and senses fulfilled throughout the day. The portions are ample enough to share with your travel comrade. The best meal I had in Istanbul was at “Ziya Baba’s” in Kadírga, Sultan Ahmet. A true value for money. If you have an exotic palate, which craves for some extra spiciness, add some biber (red pepper) or pickles to season your plate.

Snacks on the way: Travelling can be exhausting. To stay hydrated and invigorated, make sure to stop by and try the short eats that the city has to offer you. You can quench your thirst for just three lira with the best, freshly squeezed “Nar suyu”. You find nar (pomegranate) in abundance in winter. The creamy Ottoman ice cream called Dondurma is so tasty that you can dig into massive scoops even on the coldest days. Then there’s the traditional doughnut of Turkey, Simit, the staple bread of the Turks.

Walk when you can: That’s the best way to explore the far-fledged corners of a city like Istanbul. Spare your energy by taking a yellow Taksim to Karaköy or Beyoğlu from Sultan Ahmet. Invest on an “Istanbul Kart” and reload it as you move. It will help you to save a lot on transport. Take the metro from Taksim Square to Levent, Osmanbey and Mecidieyköy stations to witness Istanbul’s administrative, business and commercial districts. Head to Kanyon in Levent or Cevahir Mall in Mecidiyeköy for a stupendous shopping extravagance. 

Learning survival Turkish helped me a great deal to get myself acquainted with the people and culture. I created a playlist of my favourite Turkish pop songs to listen en route. Engaging in small talk with the natives will enrich your travel experience. Share your anecdotes and titbits of your travel with them. I did not hesitate to kindly interrupt the good looking Turks moving about the streets to ask directions. Obviously, manual road tracking is much better than the boring GPS. I ended the Odyssey with a Bosphorous Cruise as I said adieu to my favourite pit-stops of Istanbul.