Colombo Courtyard’s Scarlet Room aims for the top

By Madushka Balasuriya

A year on from our last review of Colombo Courtyard’s Scarlet Room, a sense of change is definitely in the air. Still remains the chilled-out ambience and locale high above the noise and traffic of Duplication Road, yet a stern resolve now seems to be in place to ensure that the dining experience provided is of the high standards expected by Colombo’s burgeoning culture of ‘foodies’.

Leading the change is Colombo Courtyard General Manager Roshan George, formerly of Tintagel, who accompanied me and my dining companion for the evening’s meal. We were met by Roshan in the seating area opposite their well-stocked wine cellar.

At this juncture I need to take a moment to praise the decor and now customary ‘feel’ of the lounge area, which successfully performs the not easy task of granting all those who enter an escape from the racket that is Duplication Road, while simultaneously managing to keep intact the serenity offered by the outdoors.

As we moved upstairs and into the Scarlet Room, the interior decor had not seen any changes; don’t fix what isn’t broken is a good mantra I felt, as we sat at a table in front of the ‘photo wall’ emblazoned with quirky, yet the most Sri Lankan of photographs. Yes, there were tuk tuks. 

On to the dining, the first thing you notice is the new and improved menu. On the surface the same, but content wise much more streamlined, something George said he had identified as a key problem upon taking up the post. 

That’s not to say however that the choices at hand are in any way limited; 72 items are available in total, ranging from homemade pastas and risottos to all the meaty staples including duck and pork, not to mention the desserts (more on that later).

As far as beverages go, you have the usual selection of juices, sodas as well as a full selection of wines but, handily, you also get full access to the bar upstairs with its wide array of delicious cocktails.

Starters

My dining companion and I, having settled on a red and white wine respectively, went about our business of selecting starters. After resolving to steer clear of the deceptively filling soups as well as the assortment of salads, we decided to go with the Carpaccio Di Salmon Affumicato (smoked salmon carpaccio), the Capesante E’ Gamberi Scottate (seared prawns and scallops) and, a new addition to the menu, the Pollo All’aglio Con Pane Di casa (garlic chicken flatbread) for the table.

What struck me first were the portion sizes; while certainly not cheap they didn’t leave me feeling short-changed either (not to mention, I felt completely vindicated in not going for the soups!). That being said, portions and price are only part of what makes a great dish, how did it taste? Starting with the garlic chicken flatbread let’s just say it was wise we ordered it ‘for the table’. A plate long strip of flatbread served on a long rectangular plate, embellished with lettuce, tomato and cheese went perfectly with the generous serving of garlic chicken.

I ordered the smoked salmon, a simple dish done well. A healthy slice of salmon, with farm house bread accompanying it; the flavours complimented each other and if you were eating light, it might even have been considered a main.

My companion meanwhile ordered the seared prawns and scallops crowned with caviar, and tortilla chips on the side with avocado, basil, and sun dried tomato purée. As a rule of thumb it is always a good sign when someone refuses to share their dish (a recurring theme it would prove to be on the night). Easily the best dish out of the lot, with the flavours from the prawns and scallops really coming through. Highly recommended.

Mains

Having seen the size of the starters, we were cautious about leaving room for dessert but at the same time we wanted to try out as many mains as possible. So we did. Upon the insistence of Roshan we went for their revamped ‘Rib Eye’ Bistecca Di Manzo Grigliata (Grilled beef rib eye steak), the Agnello Al Forno Con Erbe E’ Spezie Italiane (oven roasted herb and berry crust lamb), and, as a vegetarian option, the Raviolone Al Fungi in Salsa Aurora (mushroom ravioli in aurora sauce). Roshan meanwhile had the Seno Di Anatra Saltato in Padella (pan fried duck breast), which we also had the pleasure of tasting.

If that wasn’t enough, due to a mix up in the kitchen (the menu had only been implemented the previous week), we were served another dish by accident: the Filleto Di Manzo Grigliata (grilled beef tenderloin). Definitely the kind of mistakes we can tolerate!

So with five dishes to try out, we set to ‘work’. To make the process easier we thought a ranking scale from 1-10 would be a good idea, starting off with the vegetarian dish. I’m usually a big fan of mushroom ravioli, however the pasta was slightly overcooked, giving a slightly rubbery texture. The flavour was there and the aurora or tomato sauce was not too tangy, but the texture definitely let the dish down. 5/10.

Next up the dish we received by mistake, the grilled beef tenderloin. The big chunk of meat was full of flavour, however there was an inconsistency with the cooking, as the outside was well done but further in the meat was closer to medium rare: a shame for an otherwise great dish. 7/10.

We then had a taste of Roshan’s pan fried duck. Full disclosure: I’m a big fan of duck, my companion not so much. So with our biases intact we tasted. The combination of flavours, I felt, was outstanding. My personal taste wanders on to the sweeter side and the mixture of orange, honey and tomato jam didn’t disappoint. My companion’s verdict? “It was alright”. A resounding yes then from both parties. 8/10.

Moving on to the lamb, which was arguably the best dish of the night. A lamb dish done well is a thing of beauty and this certainly was nothing short of beautiful. The presentation whet my appetite and the flavour sated it. A knockout combo if there ever was one. 9/10.

However, there was a reason why I chose to put the word ‘arguably’ as a qualifier during my take on the lamb, and that reason is the rib eye steak. It was the last dish served due to the earlier mentioned kitchen mix-up, but even with our appetites depleted, this dish ticked all the boxes. The problems experienced with the tenderloin were non-existent; the meat was cooked to perfection. It was also not an overly extravagant dish; just some grilled vegetables, mashed potatoes and béarnaise sauce. That was all it needed. 9/10.

Desserts

Having been through the proverbial ringer, we knew we had to clear up some room deep within ourselves for dessert. Looking at the menu, there was tinge of regret, as the desire to try it all met with the reality that it just wouldn’t happen. At least not that night.

There are 11 items on the desert menu at present, something Chef Jean Pierre said he would look to refresh and add to regularly. This was also a point Roshan touched upon; he wants to make Colombo Courtyard renowned for its desserts – they’re not far away.

We ordered the Baked Blueberry Cheesecake, the Chocolate Parfait and the Italian Tiramisu. The cheesecake was much lighter and spongier than expected. It was interesting in texture while the flavour remained as expected. The presentation for even a dish as simple as cheesecake was top notch, with an elegant chocolate swan adorning the two cubes of cake.

The tiramisu was again surprising, as the overwhelming coffee flavour usually associated with it was lacking. It personally suited my taste. A very light dish; somewhat of a theme with the desserts considering the overwhelming nature of the mains and starters.

However, the odd one out and standout was definitely the parfait; if chocolate is your vice, this is the dish for you. The presentation of the dish was only surpassed by its flavour. The sponge cake on the side with a dollop of whipped cream proved the perfect counterfoil for the concentrated chocolate that is the parfait. Our only regret was being unable to finish it due to its (and our) heavy nature.

 

Conclusions

Speaking to Roshan, it is clear that constant improvement, exceptional service and consistency are high on the agenda, and they must be if a self-imposed three-year mandate to make Colombo Courtyard “a place to remember” is to come to fruition.

Colombo Courtyard and its Scarlet Room are on the rise, the considerable marketing and research that has gone in to their new menu is paying dividends and while there were certainly some mistakes during our meal, it is to their credit that I fully expect those to be ironed out on my next visit.

If a recommendation were to be given based on this one meal, I would say “go eat at Courtyard,” however having shared a meal with the man behind the scenes, I say it is a must.

Pix by Malik Gunatilleke

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