&Co Pub and Kitchen stays the course!

By Madushka Balasuriya

It’s been a year and a half since our first review of the excellent &Co Pub and Kitchen, and in that time we’re pleased to report not much has changed. 

Located on the ground floor of Citrus’ resident boutique hotel in Colombo The Steaurt, its interior decor remains strongly resemblant of classic British pubs (in this case, with added Scottish flavour); tartan patterns adorn table mats, miniature flags representing nations of the (still) United Kingdom are draped around the centrally located bar, while Scottish clan insignia hang aesthetically on the walls. 

In true pub fashion, a handful of televisions placed strategically around the establishment offer a constant stream of whatever sport is on at the time. All of this serenaded by an upbeat soundtrack of 90s and early 00s hits. Add to this ample seating, both indoors and out, and it suffices to say &Co’s ambience has lost none of its signature charm, proving the age old adage, ‘don’t fix it if it ain’t broke’. 

Bar & Kitchen

Change however is a part of life, and &Co’s menu has undergone somewhat of an evolution, if not quite revolution. While retaining its eclectic nature, offering roughly 75 options, inclusive of a 15-item bar menu, it attempts to strike a fine balance between the Sri Lankan palate and traditional British pub grub. Pub staples such as burgers, pies, pasties, sandwiches, grilled meats, and fish & chips, share menu real estate with pasta, korma, kofta, lamprais and, every Sri Lankan’s staple, rice & curry. 

Due to popular demand the biggest change to the menu is the number of pork dishes; a pulled pork sandwich, spicy pork pasty, and pork chops, now join the always delicious pork ribs (which has also had a bit of a facelift, with mushroom sauce now an option in case you want a change from the classic barbecue). Other notable newcomers include a vegetarian ravioli, wasabi prawns, potted chicken, and optional choices on the seafood platter.

The drinks menu too has been given a revamp, with a separate wine list now available showcasing &Co’s extensive selection of Australian, South African, Mediterranean, and South American wines. Cocktails, meanwhile, continue to be its crowning jewel, with its well-trained bar staff some of the most adept in Colombo at whipping up delicious alcoholic concoctions, be it in single or pitcher form. The menu is rounded out by an exhaustive array of liquors.

Pluses

As a starter I had the Smoked Chicken Salad (Rs. 579). Tender and succulent the meat was exquisitely cooked, while the honey mustard dressing along with furnishings of sun-dried tomato added a sweet counterpoint to the dollops of balsamic vinegar spread methodically in between layers of lettuce.

Looking for some bites the Chef-recommended Hot Battered Calamari (Rs. 595)is a must-have, and being served some of the most generously-sized calamari rings anywhere certainly helped the decision making process. Marinated in a delightful sweet chilli sauce, and offering an ideal blend of crunch and tenderness, this dish is the quintessential Sri Lankan ‘bite’. The acidity of the accompanying tartar sauce meanwhile instantly neutralised any spice without compromising on flavour. 

In our last review we spoke in great detail about the ribs (Rs. 1950), and while back then the meat was marginally on the tougher side, this time around it was quite literally falling off the bone. So much so that ribs, which generally render the use of hands a necessity, made prodding and slicing the meat with cutter an effortless task. As for the taste, the mushroom sauce is a pronounced change from the BBQ, and it is the first time this reviewer had tried ribs in something other than a sweet sauce. Fortunately it meshed well with the ribs, and even more so with the side of mashed potatoes. 

Let me take a moment here to appreciate &Co’s treatment of potatoes in general; their French fries were airy but crispy, and perfectly salted, while the mashed potatoes were some of the best we’ve ever tasted. Creamy, soft and topped with cheese. Overall some of the best ribs we’ve had.

The desserts in general were as decadent as expected from a hearty British pub, with no surprises, complications or twists. The Sticky Toffee Pudding (Rs. 475) and Baked Alaska (Rs. 450) were ideal for those with an extra sweet tooth, while the Ultimate Creme Brulee (Rs.475), a new addition to the menu, was exactly as you would expect; the custard remained impressively smooth throughout, while the caramel did well not to overpower the dish.

Minuses 

The Dirty Loaded Burger (Rs. 999) came promising a filling containing bacon, egg, cheese, tomato, lettuce, caramelised onions, and fried onion rings, all woven around a monstrosity of a patty in between thick sesame topped buns. Everything and more you’d expect, or want, in a burger. Inexplicably however we were left a touch underwhelmed by the entire experience. Each element seemed to work together, especially the addition of the fried onion rings for a crunchy element, however it was let down by a lukewarm, verging on cold, bun. We’re more than prepared though to put that down to a one time anomaly.

Conclusion

&Co remains top of its class for classic pub food, delicious cocktails, and quiet (or not so quiet) outings with friends, family, or that special someone. All coming together in a package that won’t cost you an arm and a leg, it remains the go-to spot for a decadent yet affordable meal. 

 - Pix courtesy &Co Pub 

and Kitchen