Graze at Hilton: New normal, same quality

By Madushka Balasuriya 

It really is a weird time to be alive. The world as we knew it is no more; life seems to be upside down. So it’s understandable – human nature, even – to grasp on to moments, or anything really, that might represent normality or the way things used to be. 

I was looking forward to such a moment – and evening of food, drink and relaxation – when having driven up to the entrance at the Colombo Hilton, I was promptly informed that the valet service had been halted owing to COVID-19. An admittedly small inconvenience – and one and filed firmly under ‘first world problems’ – but one that would in usual circumstances be cause for a scathing TripAdvisor review at the very least.

But alas, these are not normal times, and instead it was the first in a series of measures that quietly reassured me that my evening’s dining experience would be one where my health and safety would be prioritised.

Walking in, in addition to the safety precautions put in place in the wake of the Easter Sunday bombings – such as bag checks and metal detectors – there is now also a hand sanitising station, temperature checks, and friendly reminders posted near all entrances of the expected social distancing and hygiene etiquette.

Grazing protocols

But where the real test of these measures of course would be at the Graze Kitchen, as managing the mingling of guests is far easier to police in the spacious lobby area as opposed to a dining area where guests are more likely to come into contact with each other and common surfaces.

Among the precautions taken at Graze, the key one is that no guests are allowed to serve food for themselves; this goes a long way to limiting any spread of germs. Instead, each station now has chefs who will gladly serve you the items requested. Plates too are no longer kept outside for easy access, rather patrons can ask their server for as many as they should need.

Mask usage, meanwhile, is mandatory unless seated. This was in fact tested by yours truly – just as I was about to make my way to a food station, a member of staff promptly reminded me to put on my mask. This was both reassuring, and a little embarrassing – which is indeed a great way to ensure such protocols are followed. And it’s certainly something I wish other establishments would follow more stringently.

Cotton napkins have also been replaced by their disposal cousins, which again greatly reduces any chance of germs being spread.

Standards remain high

In terms of the quality of the food, however, it was pleasing to note that none of these protocols had diminished Graze’s standards in the slightest.

Having frequented Graze on multiple occasions pre-COVID, we knew exactly which stations provided the high ticket items, so to speak, so it was simply due diligence to see if they remained up to scratch. Suffice to say we weren’t disappointed. 

The stations are as diverse as we’ve now come to expect with offerings of Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Western cuisines available, to go along with their wide selection of breads and desserts. There is also now a handy addition of notice boards next to each station, neatly listing each available item; another safety measure to ensure diners aren’t tempted to touch surfaces unnecessarily.

Among our favourites from the selection remains the Lamb Kofta, which wrapped in home-made Turkish pita bread is truly a delight, while the carvery – oh my, the carvery – was replete with succulent beef tenderloin, roast chicken, and a host of rustic vegetables. In a word, divine.

Graze’s salad selection meanwhile is constantly updated, but nevertheless manages to retain its almost innate understanding of what works and what doesn’t. On the night we visited we were treated to Bavarian Potato Salad, Creamy Apple Salad, and a selection of cold mezze items – among others.

The desserts were also what we’ve come to expect, with staples such as the outrageously good wattalapan, refreshing homemade sea salt and honey ice-cream, and a series of mousses and cakes, all proving themselves deserving of multiple servings.

On the whole, this level of quality meshed with supreme hygiene and safety standards is what one would expect from a brand such as Hilton. And it’s certainly something others should aspire to.

Pix by Upul Abayasekara