Ikoi-Tei brings fresh Japanese flavours to Colombo

By Uditha Jayasinghe 

Japanese food with a little touch of familiar Sri Lankan flavours has been added to Colombo’s ever-growing dining scene by Ikoi-Tei.

In the latest flavour journey offered to visitors at Dutch Hospital, the restaurant has been seamlessly merged into the previous pub atmosphere of Work In Progress by Hilton Hotel, and given a facelift with well-loved authentic Japanese dishes.

The setting remains informal and cosy but the décor has changed subtly to match the Japanese menu, with paintings of traditional Japanese art added to the walls. The bar area is dominated by a large blackboard with a variety of bites advertised but the attention grabber is the new menu created by Japanese Master Chef Hikaru Takahashi.

Having spent more than a dozen years in and out of Sri Lanka, Takahashi is deeply familiar with the preferences of locals and he marries this familiarity with authentic Japanese flavours effortlessly. Old favourites of tuna, sushi, sashimi and Katsudon bowls are laid out in the simple but thoughtful menu with helpful photo illustrations to help the customers pick their favourites. The holistic menu also pays special attention to vegetarians with many dishes and even desserts catering to a wide range of dining preferences.

“There is clearly a fast-growing interest in Japanese food in Sri Lanka with more and more people becoming aware of the benefits of Japanese cuisine,” Chef Takahashi noted.

The interesting aspect of the menu is its understated nod to Sri Lankan staples such as spice mixtures and curries. People looking for a fresh twist on Japanese food should have a taste of the Katsu Curry, which comes with a side of sticky rice, perfectly seared pork and a tangy gravy that echoes the curries that are the hallmark of Sri Lankan cuisine. Pork fans will also love the barbecued pork chops that are finished off at the table. A Chicken Katsu option, minus the rice is also available. 

The same sensitivity of flavour is seen in the garlic rice, which is topped with a mix of spice powder, comparable to the five-spice powder that is a quintessential ingredient in local food and chilli powder. A Japanese flavoured burger also compliments the pub-fused interior feel of Ikoi-Tei and reflects the meaning, which roughly translates to “place of relaxation”.

Simplicity is at the heart of the menu and is demonstrated by the two selections of Carpaccio. Fish, sourced from Negombo, is thinly sliced and sprinkled over with a tart dressing and a few squares of bell pepper and herbs for texture and seasoning. The result is a refreshing dish that leaves an almost palate-cleansing feel.

Typical of Japanese cuisine, seafood plays an integral part in the menu, with tuna sushi and sashimi lending elegance to the intricately plated selections. In fact, the Spicy Tuna Roll is one of the top dishes and perfectly matches local palates.

Tempura is another favourite amongst local diners and Ikoi-Tei delivers on all fronts with special attention to a large helping of fried vegetables with a dipping sauce that even a dedicated meat-eater would find appetising. The filling bowls of noodle soup, with pork, chicken or soft-boiled egg, give satisfaction with none of the guilt associated with an indulgent meal.

The dessert section continues to play with authentic but restrained Japanese flavours. The Green Tea Swiss Roll comes with a scoop of smooth green tea ice cream but keeps the flavours from being overpowering. A big ball of green tea or chocolate ice cream is also fried a deep golden brown in tempura batter and drizzled with ‘kitul pani’. Banana tempura is also served with ice cream. The dessert section is comparatively smaller than the rest of the menu but provides the perfect end to a meal.

Ikoi-Tei brings together all the best elements needed for an enjoyable meal. Whether it’s an intense working lunch or a laid back meal with family and friends, the restaurant, with its iconic landmark and warm setting, provides the perfect setting to create new memories.